Vaca-nation

A few shots of the bovine in my life.  This one eyeing one of the ubiquitous windshield washers, who incidentally, always do a fantastic job.

These from Santa Maria Tiahuitoltepec as they prepared for the rodeo at the recent fiesta.

 

Politics, politics, politics.

They unloaded them by having them simply back off the truck.  This one lurched off, saw me, and said, "OMG, a gringo. I must get closer."  Everyone else was running the other way.

Dear Mr. Man

I just finished David Mitchell's "Cloud Atlas," a book I thoroughly enjoyed.  One of its themes is the power of corporations and much of it seems prescient.  We are not too far from David Foster Wallace's concept of corporate sponsorship of the years, hence, The Year of the Depends Adult Undergarment.  So a couple of stories caught my eye this morning.
First, this from the LAHT (emphasis added)

Mexican President Enrique Peña Nieto inaugurated a 1.6-billion-peso ($130-million) expansion of a Nestle instant coffee factory in the central city of Toluca.

The project has boosted the plant’s productive capacity by 30 percent, making it the world’s biggest facility of its kind, Nestle Mexico CEO Marcelo Melchior said during Friday’s ceremony.

The factory, which covers a 14-hectare (34-acre) area, will supply the Mexican, U.S., Central American, Caribbean, Middle Eastern and Japanese markets, the Swiss food giant said in a statement.

As part of the remodeling, a biomass boiler was installed to process spent coffee grounds from the production process for use as fuel, thereby covering 60 percent of the plant’s electricity needs. (snip)

Mexico is one of the world’s leading coffee-producing countries and the largest producer of organic coffee, according to figures from the sector, which is facing a crisis stemming from the spread of a fungus from Central America.

And this one also from LAHT:

Mexichem, one of the leading companies of the Latin American chemical and petrochemical industry, announced that the cost of purchasing 100 percent of the PVC Specialty Resins business of the U.S. firm PolyOne will amount to $250 million.

Mexichem revealed the price of the operation upon filing with stock market regulators, recalling that on May 15 it received authorization for the purchase from regulatory authorities in the United States and Germany.

The Mexican company said it will begin to integrate operations once the acquisition has been completed and the agreed closing conditions have been complied with, something the parties expect in the next few weeks.

For Mexichem, this acquisition “will strengthen its competitive position in North America obtaining the benefits of both the shale gas and the strategic geographical position to become the sole producer of specialty PVC resins with operations in North and South America.”

Everything is interconnected and it would seem as if the game is rigged.  "Cloud Atlas" does not paint a very cheery outcome from corpocracy.  It is a good read, six stories woven into one and you know how much I like weaving.

As the Artist Formerly Known As so aptly puts it.... If the video is blocked try this or this.  It's worth it 'cause, Prince?  He's the Man.

What's wrong with the world 2day?
Things just got 2 get better
Show me what the leaders say
Maybe we should write a letter

Said Dear Mr. Man, we don't understand
Why poor people keep struggling but U don't lend a helping hand
Matthew 5:5 say “The meek shall inherit the earth”
We wanna b down that way
but U been trippin since the day of your birth

Who said that 2 kill is a sin
Then started every single war that Ur people been in?
Who said that water is a precious commodity
Then dropped a big old black oil slick in the deep blue sea?

Who told me, Mr. Man, that working round the clock
would buy me a big housed in the hood
Cigarette ads on every block
Who told me, Mr. Man, that I got a right 2 moan?
How about this big old hole in the ozone?

What's wrong with the world 2day
Things just got 2 get better
Dear Mr. Man, we don't understand
Maybe we should write a letter

Listen, Ain't no sense in voting – same song with a different name
Might not b in the back of the bus but it sure feel just the same
Ain't nothing fair about welfare
Ain't no assistance in AIDS
We ain't that affirmative about your actions until the people get paid

Ur thousand years r up
Now U got 2 share the land
Section 1 – the 14th amendment says “No state shall deprive any person of life,
liberty, or property, without due process of law”
Mr. Man, we want 2 end this letter with 3 words
We tired a-y'all

Street art cont....

An ethereal image, no?

Shades of Sidewalk Sam.

No OGM!

Monsanto, just like many other corporations, may own the US Congress, the Supreme Court, and may get what it wants from them.... I mean, why should we know what's in the food we eat?..... but in Mexico, where corn is at the very center of its culture, Monsanto is one of the great Satans.  Mention it in Oaxaca and you will almost always get a negative reaction, deservedly so.  It is a battle.

from the LAHT

Four Greenpeace activists scaled a monument in this capital on Thursday to unfurl a banner denouncing the use of genetically modified organisms in the cultivation of maize, Mexico’s emblematic staple.

The foursome climbed halfway up the Stela of Light, which stands 104 meters (341 feet) tall, hung the banner with the slogan NO OGM and remained for several hours before descending and driving away in a pickup truck.

OGM are the initials of the Spanish translation of genetically modified organisms.

Municipal police erected barriers around the monument after the protest began, but made no effort to stop the activists from hanging the banner or from leaving the scene.

Greenpeace and other Mexican organizations say they fear the possible effects of GMO maize on human health and the environment.

Shopping spree in Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec

In the center of Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec there is a market in which they sell the embroidered clothing for which the area is so famous.  Seeing as thought I was on a mission to pick something up, the place was a dream come true.  And here is what I purchased.  It now hangs on the wall as a piece of art, which is definitely is.

And here is Doña Honorina Gomez Martinez who made these wonderful pieces.

There are a couple of blouses, a skirt, a rebozo and the sash.  The detail work is fantastic.

 Five days to make each blouse.

 With the other blouse.

I can see into the future...... another trip to this wonderful village, Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec.

Band uniforms - Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec

For many years, I conducted orchestras and led bands filled with kids.  It was an even better life than you can imagine.  So I have a particular soft spot for kids making music, but at the same time, I have an ear that is fairly keen and critical.  And I have to say that the band that played for many of the dancers in  Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec this weekend was exceptional.  They had stamina and great musicality.  They had to play for over thirty minutes without a break as they accompanied the dancers.  There were no missed notes and no missed steps.  Really impressive.  I saw this girl earlier in the day and asked if I could take a shot.  I loved her outfit.  She said she played the flute.

And so she did.

Obviously, the director had it all together.  ¡Bravo, maestro!

Nice uniform, eh?

 Gotta love it.

Fiesta in Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec

Yesterday we trekked into the mountains to the east, to the village of Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec, some three hours of driving.  It is sometimes hard to believe how diverse this area is.  You go over a mountain and everything changes, from the flora and fauna to the people and their cultures.  It can be desolate and dry on one side of the hill and green and vibrant on the other.  This is the mixe region and the faces and language are much different.  The villages often sit on the sides of the mountains and have incredible vistas.  The roads were not bad at all, but I am not sure how they will be once the rains arrive.

For me, hands down, the clothing the women wore was the highlight of the trip.  Several months ago I had seen a traje, an outfit, from Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec in an artesano feria in the city and almost bought it simply because it was so beautiful.  I planned to hang it on the wall as a piece of art along with the other huipiles that grace mi casa.  But.... I didn't buy it.  However, I copied down the name of the village and made note of the fact that they were having a fiesta this weekend.  Our plan was hatched and we executed it flawlessly.  All we had to do was show up.  The rest was easy and most magical.

The village was packed and happening.  People were very friendly and open.  The food was good.  We sampled tamales, coloradito, amarillo and rajas.  All very tasty, but different in the consistency of the masa.  There were bands playing on balconies, a large market, basketball games, then dancing.  We left before the rodeo began.  The fiesta is a three day affair and we only caught a few hours of it, but it was so worth it.  What a treat.  You can see what I mean about the women's clothing.

 We all scream for ice scream in any language

A woman from the village to the west, Tamazulapam del Espiritu Santo.  You can tell by her outfit.  Even though her village is only fifteen kilometer away, they have a whole different look.

 Family portrait

 What a look.

 I think the women wear these beautiful embroidered pieces everyday.  I love how they wear the rebozo, kind of folded.  I am sure there is an art to it.

And as always, it is the abuelitas that steal the show.

I did end up buying a full traje, complete with skirt, blouse, belt and rebozo.  I will get a shot of it later.  So hold on..... more to come.

The Incredible Power Of Concentration - Miyoko Shida

Some things deserve to go viral.  This is one.  Watch until the end.

Who's your daddy?

Papa Papas, who else?  And in Papaland, where else?

French fries land?  

"Hmmmm..... OK, but I'm not gonna try it. Get Mikey, I mean Miguel. He'll try anything, but they gotta move that trash can."

I will confess that I always grab some, uh, Freedom Fries, in Houston on my way back to the States.  Here, I hardly ever even see them until now.... Papaland!

It's a universal

The graduation leap of joy!

I saw this thousands of times, the cap and gown shot. "Thanks, now let me put these heels back on."

Sharing the moment with classmates.  No doubt these shots went on Facebook within minutes.

 

This could be anywhere.

However, it was here in Yanhuitlan and not many people can say that.  ¡Felicidades!

Opposites - Ambulante

It was a day of opposites and ironies.  Like the guy I saw on a big motorcycle, no helmet, gym shorts, flip flops and a T shirt that read "Total Protection." Or the bumper sticker of the Christian fish, you know the one, eating a smaller fish with Darwin spelled inside it and a caption of "Survival of the Fittest."  Go figure.

Or this shot of a guy taking a siesta, lying down in front of a poster "Ambulante," which means walking or traveling. 

Actually, "Ambulante" is a festival of documentaries taking place now in many different venues.

El Picacho - Dí­a de la Santa Cruz

Warning: objects may appear closer than they really are....

And so it was with climbing El Picacho in Teotitland del Valle on May 3, el Dí­a de la Santa Cruz, the Day of the Holy Cross.  El Picacho is both iconic and sacred, so it was an honor to follow in the footsteps of so many before us as we did our best to celebrate this tradition. 

No matter what anyone says, it is a pretty good trek up to the top.  It is steep in spots, depending on which path you follow, and the altitude makes it tougher... or maybe that is just me.  There is also a race up the mountain and I think we saw the winner as he blazed past us near the top.  He was flying.

It was hot and we were all sweating, but then, as we got higher, the cool winds engulfed us.  It took about an hour and a half to reach the top. 

Upon making it all the way up, we were greeted by people from the village who offered us horchata, agua de jamaica and tamales. 

The mood was friendly and celebratory.  A few cohetes, rockets with a loud boom.

 

The food and drink are a part of these folk's cargo, or community work and was carried up on burros.

There was a simple altar at the very top. 

As we ate and drank, basked in the bright sun, we were surrounded by happy people. 

There was much laughter in the air as the winds whipped across expansive vistas. 

 

We recovered from the trek up and headed down, but not before drinking an incredibly cold beer that some young guys had carried up as a part of a little feast.  They are living in the US now, but had returned to their village and this was just a part of doing it right.  Tradition!

We heard that two of the crosses had been hit by lightning very recently.  According to legend, the three crosses represent the ones found in Jerusalem.  El Dí­a de la Santa Cruz is also the day of the Albañiles (masons, construction workers) and little crosses appear on the roofs of all the new projects before the workers all go off and party.  They know how to do it right, as well.  Tradition!

Amen to that shirt!

In my never ending series of t-shirt shots, I saw this young many today and asked him if I could take a quick pic.  He obliged and then insisted that his friends get in the action.  I like the anarchy medallion along with the anti-torture message.

Los Tres Amigos

Poetry of the Streets

"They say that to love is to exist.  Tell me why I love you and feel like I don't exist."

Return to Yanhuitlan

Yanhuitlan remains one of my favorite places to visit because, not only is it such a stunning setting, the church and monastery so massive, but the site is an encapsulation of so many aspects of Mexican history.  It is in the Mixteca region, about an hour's drive north of Oaxaca.

Long story short:  100,000 Mixtecs lived there when the Spanish showed up in in the early 1500's.  The Dominicans decided to build a church and to convert everyone to Catholicism.  They designed the village surrounding the church and built an aqueduct.  A good plan.  Unfortunately, they also brought diseases that effectively wiped out the population with fifty years with a 95 percent kill rate.  No need for a large church after that, but construction continued through the centuries and it survived various battles during the revolutions. The restoration has been ongoing for several years now as the government pushes the Ruta Domincana.

I remember the first time we went there when work on the interior of the church had barely begun.  There were birds living in the huge dust filled space.  It was dark and dirty and magical.  Now, it is bright and white and I think it has lost a little of its magic, because so much of the patina is gone and the floors and walls are too perfect.  However, the before, during and after shots are pretty dramatic.

 That little white rectangle is spixl, just to give you an idea of how big the place is.

 That's me in the flying buttress.

 The finished front facade.

 What a ceiling!  At least twenty five meters up there.

 Some of the lost patina.  One of the original doors.

First they cut the stone, in this case a channel for rain,  and then, somehow, got it all the way up to the roof..... without any machines.

 Beautiful moorish ceiling at the entrance.

 With scaffolding

 And without

I need to go back to get some shots I missed.... like I need a excuse to return to one of my favorite places.